Already now Monday, “the morning after”, it was a real treat for Val and me to head into town to experience this wonderful village, observe the architecture of the churches and shoppes, and to enjoy the pretty flowers planted all around St. Andrews. Finally, we found an ATM and were able to get CASH – quite the thrill, as we were headed for a week in the Scottish Highlands for touring and more golf. Of course, who did we run into at the ATM – Janis and Erika on their own walk about town!
We had a special treat in store for the afternoon – we caught a cab and ten minutes later were delivered to the Fairmont Hotel’s Kittocks Golf Course. Situated seaside on high land overlooking the bay, we were welcomed and directed to our carts – this was the only course where we all four rode in “buggies”. We teed off promptly, as not too many people were there on this Monday afternoon.
What a pleasure to play this course, so many holes right along the upper cliffside, and although not advertised as often as some other St. Andrews’ courses (Old Course, Jubilee, Castle, New Course), it was a wonderful layout with brush and gorse, dips and rises, and very quick greens. It was fun to play golf like we are used to – with NO caddy. It was quite windy and chilly, so we needed our layers of clothing. We had a chuckle at the bathroom doors on the back nine, unlike any we had seen before – one door pictured a man, the other door pictured a man and woman.
Kittocks’ steep, craggy beachfront walls reminded me of Pebble Beach, and the stone fences, deep bunkers, and endless birds-eye coastline views made this course one of our favorites. Their signature par-3 16th hole at the base of the clubhouse required crossing a 4-foot stone wall running both in front of the green and alongside it, making for some interesting vertical pitch shots! And the final two holes sending us out and back upward toward the clubhouse were gorgeous and memorable. After a quick stop in the pub overlooking the 16th hole, our cab arrived to transport us back into town. We all loved this Kittocks course!
The four of us decided to take a night off from our usual Macdonald Rusack’s dinner fare, and upon the cabby’s recommendation, we chose ZIGGY’s, a local pub right up the hill within walking distance. Such a fun spot – great burgers, fajitas, and sopapillas to finish! We are beginning to get sad as our days in St. Andrews are coming to an end, but first, one more course to play nearby – Kingsbarns – we hear is the ultimate!
On Tuesday, our final full day in town, Val and I decided to rise again early to catch the sunrise on “The Old Course”. We then strolled along the long, pristine beach of St. Andrews Bay – where the opening running scene in “Chariots of Fire” was filmed. We proceeded past the renowned St. Andrews University and observed the ruins of St. Andrews Castle and Cathedral. Again, a chance meeting with Erika and Janis as they were out taking sunrise photos – Janis with her super camera/lenses and her amazing trained eye! Val and I again wandered the streets of the delightful downtown St. Andrews where we wished we could have spent a few more days shopping and exploring.
Our driver picked us up right in front of the Macdonald Rusacks hotel as scheduled, for the 15-minute drive to Kingsbarns. Built just twenty years ago, this championship course, like the Old Course, was preparing to host the European Tour’s Dunhill Cup. We pulled up to the beautiful circle entry, noticing the tall pole displaying their flapping Kingsbarns flag and were welcomed and greeted. Their elegant yet modest pro shop had beautiful clothing and gifts. We shopped a few minutes before being shuttled to their fine practice area. Folks told me that the large practice building at the other end of the driving range also serves as the official golf club testing site for the R&A. We hit a few balls and even hit a few shots out of the deep-stacked sod practice bunker. The rake in this bunker was unlike any we have ever seen – it looked like the inside of a paint roller attached to a long pole and it impressively smoothed and dispersed the sand!
Janis and Erika shared a golf cart and were each assigned their own “personal caddy”. Val and I each pulled our own trolley. The starter introduced himself and presented each player a yardage book, bag tag, and logoed silver Kingsbarns ball markers, and even posed for a photo with us! We all striped our tee shots right down the middle, and the groups waiting their turn took notice! Even our caddies looked forward to being with us, as they sensed they would not have to look for many balls today!
What a gorgeous property, a stunning seaside masterpiece! Janis and Erika each enjoyed their caddy’s guidance, sometimes saving them a shot here and there. It was also great having their keen direction, as there were several places one could get lost without assistance. It was quite the hilly walk, but worth every step!
The par-5 9th proceeded uphill toward the clubhouse, and at the turn, the Scottish pasties were a hot surprise! On hole #12, Val, for the second time this vacation, had an eagle opportunity on this stunning, seaside, risk/reward par-5 hole! On hole #13, there was a tall wall of stone on the left and the green was surrounded by bunkers. I thought it was the prettiest par-3 we had played yet. But twenty minutes later, onward toward the glen of trees alongside the water, appeared the stunning signature hole #15. It is basically: tee shot, entire cove of water, then a wide, fast green, similar to the famed Cypress Point’s 16th hole. Let’s just say, Janis conquered it!
The finishing hole, #18, meanders down a steep hill, then back up to the finish near the clubhouse. A great experience, and combined with fine play and fun caddies, Kingsbarns lived up to its billing as one of the top 50 courses in the world!
After returning to the hotel, we made reservations at one of St. Andrew’s highest-rated restaurants: Forgan’s. What a lovely casual setting amongst walls of plants – Crudités, vegetables, and delightful lamb dinners were served. A memorable meal for our last night in St. Andrews.
After dinner, we still had time for one last walk to the Swilcan Bridge on the Old Course just before sunset. And yes, we made it back in time for the complimentary cookies and ice cream included in our hotel meal plan. Then it was time to finish our packing so we would be ready for our early departure in the morning.
What a pleasure it was to stay at this gorgeous old hotel, right on the 18th green at St. Andrews’ Old Course. Just walking through the lobby, the restaurants, the bars, and seeing the photos adorning every wall in every hallway, made you realize that many great golfers have made this same walk in this very same place. Goodbye St. Andrews!
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